The Art and Science of Fashion Buying: An Interview with Sabrina Compagno

Fashion buying and merchandising lie at the heart of what we wear, what we see in stores, and how trends become part of our everyday lives. To explore this critical area of the fashion industry, we sat down with Sabrina Compagno, a seasoned fashion buyer and merchandising consultant with over 15 years of experience. Sabrina also teaches aspiring professionals, sharing her insights through lectures and workshops. In this interview, she offers invaluable advice for anyone looking to enter or grow in this dynamic field.

Interview by Anamaria Tushishvili

Teaching Fashion Buying: Bridging Theory and Practice

Sabrina’s teaching approach blends foundational knowledge with practical application. “In my classes, I teach the basics of fashion buying and merchandising: how to plan collections, understand trends, manage budgets, and analyze sales data,” she explains. Students participate in real-life case studies, simulations, and product assortment exercises. The goal? To equip future buyers with decision-making skills that mirror industry reality.

Key Skills for Today’s Merchandisers

When asked about the most important hard and soft skills for beginners, Sabrina emphasizes data literacy and flexibility. “This job is all about numbers,” she says. “Understanding sales data, managing stock, and being able to act quickly are all critical.” On the soft skills side, teamwork, communication, and adaptability are essential. She encourages students to master tools like Excel, PLM systems, Power BI, and Tableau, which are widely used across fashion companies today.

This job is all about numbers. Understanding sales data, managing stock, and being able to act quickly are all critical

Building a Network: Online and Offline

Networking, Sabrina notes, is easier than ever thanks to digital platforms. “LinkedIn is your best friend,” she says, recommending students create a professional profile and actively participate in webinars and fashion communities. Offline, attending trade shows, showroom visits, and volunteering at events can open doors. “Fashion is all about people and connections.”

Balancing Creativity and Analysis

Is fashion buying more creative or analytical? “It’s 50/50,” Sabrina says. “You can learn numbers, but creativity is harder to teach.” In her classes, she encourages students to build collections based on trend research and sales data, helping them merge instinct with logic. “Understanding both sides is essential to succeed in buying.”

A Day in the Life of a Fashion Buyer

No two days are alike in Sabrina’s role. “Every morning starts with reviewing sales and stock,” she shares. “Then it’s meetings with suppliers, reviewing trends, and aligning with marketing and planning teams.” The work is a mix of analytics, creativity, and cross-functional collaboration, keeping the job dynamic and engaging.

The fashion buyer work is a mix of analytics, creativity, and cross-functional collaboration

How the Industry Has Changed

Reflecting on her 15-year career, Sabrina notes that the industry has evolved significantly. “There used to be more time for personal judgment and relationships. Now everything moves faster, and decisions are more data-driven.” She sees both positives and negatives in this shift, citing improvements in sustainability and efficiency through technology—but also a move away from quality and individuality.

In today’s fashion buying work everything moves faster, and decisions are more data-driven than taste-based.

Starting Out in Fashion Buying

For newcomers, Sabrina suggests a mix of education and hands-on experience. “I started as an assistant designer, then took a buying course at Istituto Marangoni, which led to my first role at YOOX.” She also sees value in retail experience:

“Many buyers start as store assistants. Being on the shop floor teaches you what sells and why.”

Online vs Offline: Different Worlds

Today, Sabrina works in an omnichannel environment. “Offline retail is more about people, emotions, and high operational costs,” she explains. “Online is data-driven, scalable, and sometimes more efficient. The balance between both worlds is where the future lies.”

The Role of AI in Fashion Buying

Artificial intelligence is beginning to influence the role of buyers, Sabrina acknowledges. From demand forecasting to user experience, AI offers new tools, but she cautions against seeing it as a replacement. “It should empower professionals, not replace them. Human intuition and creativity are still irreplaceable.”

AI should empower fashion buying professionals, not replace them

Final Advice for Aspiring Buyers

Sabrina’s advice to her younger self, and to students, is simple yet powerful: “Be curious, ask questions, and don’t rush. Build real relationships and don’t fear the numbers, they’ll make your creative ideas stronger.”

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Join Our Upcoming Fashion Buying Masterclass

Inspired by Sabrina’s insights? Later this year, Digital Fashion Academy will host an exclusive Fashion Buying Masterclass, where Sabrina will lead a practical and immersive session on collection planning, data analysis, and trend forecasting.

Stay tuned for dates and registration details, subscribe to our newsletter and follow us on LinkedIn to be the first to know.

Full Interview

What are three hard and soft skills that are necessary to learn and have as a beginner merchandising beginner in the industry? And what digital tools should the students learn nowadays? What is the newest one and important?

That’s a tough question. But you know, usually people think you need to know all the brands and be very focused on that — like who the creative director is, and so on. Of course, that’s important, but in reality, this job is all about numbers.

I would say the key hard skills are understanding data and knowing how collections work. Brands come and go, but numbers stay — they really tell the story and guide best practices. Also, managing stock is crucial. You need to be quick in responding to out-of-stocks and fast in making decisions, because right now, it’s all about inventory and maintaining a balanced stock.

As for soft skills — teamwork is really important. Some merchandisers may work more independently, but in reality, it’s about networking and collaboration. Communication is key — you need to be able to speak to all departments clearly and effectively. And flexibility is essential, because everything is constantly changing. You have to stay adaptable and ready to shift directions when needed.

And you know, I always suggest that they learn Excel — especially at an advanced level. It’s important to be comfortable with PLM systems and other software used to manage collections, as well as data tools like Power BI or Tableau. These tools are widely used in many companies today.

What advice would you give students on how to build strong networking connections, both online and offline? Are there any specific websites or platforms they can explore to connect with professionals from different areas within the fashion industry? How should they approach this? If you could share your suggestions, that would be really helpful.

Today, it’s definitely easier than in the past to make connections — networking has become much more accessible. Right now, the main platform for professional networking is LinkedIn. It’s a social network for careers, and it really works.

Online, I always recommend students to open a strong LinkedIn profile, join fashion webinars, and become part of industry communities. Great platforms include WGSN, Business of Fashion, and others that help you stay constantly updated — because today, every piece of information counts.

Offline, it’s really important to attend trade shows. Wherever you are, try to find relevant events — especially in countries like Italy, the UK, or France, which are central to the European fashion scene. Of course, there are great shows in the US as well. Even helping out at events or attending showroom visits can lead to real opportunities. That’s why I always say fashion is all about good people and strong connections.

Fashion buying seems to include both analytical and creative sides. Which one is more important for building a career in fashion merchandising? And how do you help students develop both skill sets?

That’s also a tough question. Ideally, it would be a 50/50 balance. But I believe that creativity is something you’re born with, while numbers — although difficult for some — can be learned. So, if we had to assign weight, I’d give a slight edge to creativity.

That said, I always help students bridge numbers and creativity. We do exercises where they analyze sales data and then create a visual assortment based on current trends. They take images from the internet to build a sample collection, and then I ask them to explain their choices: Why that style? Why that price? This helps them develop both taste and business sense, which are essential for buying roles.

Could you share what a typical working day looks like for you as a fashion buyer or merchandiser?

Every day is a bit different, but one consistent task is checking sales and stock first thing in the morning. Even if the numbers don’t shift drastically daily, it’s important to track trends — especially toward the end of the week or month when key changes happen.

Then comes communication with suppliers, reviewing trends, preparing and analyzing orders. You also work closely with teams like marketing and planning to ensure the product aligns with the brand and season. So, it’s a constant process of coordination. Overall, it’s a mix of numbers, creativity, and teamwork — and every day brings something new.

With your 15 years of experience in fashion, what major changes have you seen? How did things look in the beginning, and what’s different today? Are there aspects you miss from the past or things you appreciate more now?

Fashion has changed a lot — both in good and not-so-good ways. In the past, there was more time for personal relationships and using individual judgment. Today, things move much faster, and data plays a much bigger role in every decision.

That said, I do appreciate how technology has improved efficiency and made certain processes more sustainable and cost-effective. For example, processes that used to require a lot of financial resources can now be done more quickly and affordably.

However, I feel that we’ve moved away from the human side of the business. Previously, the personality of the designer or the identity of the brand played a much bigger role. Now, trends dominate, and unfortunately, this has led to overproduction and mass consumption.

About 20 years ago, it was more about quality and craftsmanship — especially with “Made in Italy” being a symbol of excellence. Today, many consumers have lost faith in brands, and I think the future will shift toward individuality and personal style rather than mass trends.

So, we’re really looking at three phases: the past, the present, and what’s coming next. And I believe we’re ready for the future.

What advice would you give your younger self? It’s my favorite question for experienced professionals. What would you have done differently, or what would you worry less about?

That’s a lovely question. I would tell my younger self not to stress too much. Things take time, and experience truly shapes your perspective. I’d remind myself to trust the process, stay curious, and be open to change. It’s important to stay grounded, but also to take risks when the opportunity feels right.

And most importantly — always be kind to yourself while learning.

Yeah, so I would tell myself to take time to learn and to ask questions. Always be very curious — and if you don’t know something, don’t be ashamed to ask. You’re young, and your job is to learn. I believe curiosity is truly what drives a career forward.

Fashion often feels very fast-paced, but the best careers grow step by step. Don’t rush just to “be there” quickly, because along the way, major changes often happen unexpectedly.Another piece of advice I’d give is: don’t be afraid of numbers. They actually help you make better creative decisions. And always focus on building real relationships, because often the people you meet along the way become your biggest opportunities.